As the sun sets behind Mt Fuji, the neon lights of Tokyo flicker to life: izakayas, restaurants and bars fill; beer, umeshu, highballs, chuhai and sake are raised to cheers of ?kanpai!', and the scent and sounds of nightlife fill the air. Tokyo's night scene - outside of the reserved, hallowed dining establishments - is fun, boisterous and lively. This is where locals shake off a long day, often staying out till the last trains leave the city.