Lucia Savi

A New History of "Made in Italy" (eBook, PDF)

Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy

• Format: PDF

Produktbeschreibung

In the first book to examine the role played by textile manufacturing in the development of fashion in Italy, A New History of 'Made in Italy' investigates Italy's transition from a country of dressmakers, tailors and small-scale couturiers in the early post-Second World War period to a major producer of ready-to-wear fashion in the 1980s. It takes the reader from Italy's first internationally attended fashion show in 1951 to Time magazine's Giorgio Armani April 1982 cover story, which signalled the fashion designer's international arrival, and Milan's presence as the capital of ready-to-wear.

Chapters focus for the first time on the material substance of Italian fashion - textile - looking at questions including the importance of manufacturing quality, design innovation, composition, production techniques, commerce and the role of textile on the country's overall fashion system. Through these, Lucia Savi brings to light the importance of synthetic fibres, previously little-known players, such as the carnettisti (a type of textile wholesalers) as well as re-investigating well-known couturiers and designers such as Simonetta, Gianfranco Ferré and Gianni Versace.

By looking at how things are made, by whom, and where, this book seeks to unpack the 'Made in Italy' label through a focus on making. Informed by extensive archival materials retrieved from a wide range of sources, it brings together the often-separated disciplines of fashion, textile and design history.

Produktdetails

• Verlag: Bloomsbury UK
• Seitenzahl: 248
• Erscheinungstermin: 26. Januar 2023
• Englisch
• ISBN-13: 9781350247765
• Artikelnr.: 66994014

Autorenporträt

Lucia Savi is a curator at the Design Museum, London. In 2021 she curated the V&A exhibition Bags: Inside Out and authored its accompanying publication. Dr Savi has a PhD from Kingston University, UK, on Italian fashion and textiles, and has contributed to fashion and design exhibitions and their catalogues including The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 (V&A, 2014) and Beyond Bloomsbury: Design of the Omega Workshops 1913-1919 (Courtauld, 2009).

Inhaltsangabe

List of Figures Acknowledgments Glossary Introduction Locating Italian
Fashion Made in Italy Researching 'Made in Italy' Primary Research Sources
The Inside-Out Method Research Parameters Chapter Structure 1. Fibers and
the Making of Italian Textiles in the Post-War Period Introduction Italy
between Tradition and Modernity Between Couturiers and Manufacturers From
Paris to the USA's influence The Fascist Period and the 1930s Fibers and
Politics Italian Fashion's Materiality Natural, Artificial and Synthetic
Fibers Silk, artificial and synthetic fibers SNIA Viscosa and Fibers
Promotion The Legitimization of New Fibers 2. The American Export Market
and its Influence on Italian design Introduction Textiles Make Fashion:
Italy at Work and Sala Bianca Italian Fashion in Italy at Work Italian
Textiles in Italy at Work Sala Bianca Italy and the USA: Export and
Domestic Market The Value of Hand Made and Machine Made in Italy and USA
Boutique Fashion as Proto Italian Ready-to-Wear The Mechanisms of Copies-
Italy and the USA between 'Made in Italy' and Export Made in Italy and
Export The Transatlantic Commerce of Italian Couture: Simonetta Case Study
Ready-to-Wear versus Couture The Value of Copies 3. The 1960s, a Decade of
Metamorphosis in Italian Fashion Introduction Treaty of Rome and Export The
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) and the Promotion of High
Fashion New Ways of Production, with New Products and New Ways of
Consumption Industry and Alta Moda Boutique of Ready-to-Wear 4. Fashion
meets Industry: The Role of Carnettisti in Domestic and International
Markets Carnettisti in Italy The Assortitori Tessuti Novità (Sorter of New
Textiles) Distribution of Textiles in the 1960s Carnettisti in CNMI:
Towards a Codified Role and Crisis 5. Milan and the Stilisti Introduction
Rise of Milan Distretti Industriali (Industrial Districts) The Stilista,
the Link between Textile and Fashion Production Stilista and Industrial
Production Transition from Carnettista to Stilista 6. Designing for
Mass-Production Designing Fashion Literature Review for Fashion Working
Drawings Fashion Working Drawing Decoded Paper, Type of Drawing and
Inscriptions Style and Aesthetics Textiles Gianfranco Ferré: a Case Study
Conclusion Inside Fashion: the Role of Materials and Production Fibers and
materials Internationalization Industrialization Bibliography Index