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Ocean-going Arab dhows were fast disappearing when, in 1974, National Geographic published 'Twilight of the Arab dhow' by Marion Kaplan, a British-born photojournalist and writer then based in Kenya. For a firsthand view of the ancient trading voyage Marion Kaplan travelled from Kuwait to Dubai on a small Gulf dhow, then from Dubai to Mombasa and down the African coast aboard a larger dhow. She began her voyage as passenger. She ended it as crew. Now, when the world's oldest commercial sailing route has faded into oblivion, she recounts her adventure, with numerous unpublished photos, in So Old a Ship. This is the last close look by an outsider at dhow people, dhow trading and dhow life before those lovely wooden ships were gone forever.