Preface Bibliography Part I. The Size and Speed of Ocean Waves in Relation to the Velocity of Wind: 1. Measurements from a ship hove-to during a storm 2. Observations at sea on the effect of squalls upon waves 3. Observations of the period of breakers indicating the limiting speeds of waves and the relation to speed of wind 4. The height of ocean waves measured from ships on their course 5. On the sea-room required for the full development of waves 6. The steepness of waves on oceans, inland seas and lakes 7. The reaction of ocean swell upon the wind Part II. Waves in Sand and Snow Formed and Propelled by Wind and Current: 8. Waves in sand formed and propelled by wind 9. Waves in drifting snow 10. Sub-aqueous sand waves Part III. Tidal Bores and Other Progressive Waves in Rivers: 11. On the discharge of a progressive from a standing wave in the Rapids of Niagara 12. Roll waves in shallow water flowing in a flat-bottomed channel 13. On tidal bores which assume the form of a group of short waves Additional notes Harold Jeffreys Index.
Preface Bibliography Part I. The Size and Speed of Ocean Waves in Relation to the Velocity of Wind: 1. Measurements from a ship hove-to during a storm 2. Observations at sea on the effect of squalls upon waves 3. Observations of the period of breakers indicating the limiting speeds of waves and the relation to speed of wind 4. The height of ocean waves measured from ships on their course 5. On the sea-room required for the full development of waves 6. The steepness of waves on oceans, inland seas and lakes 7. The reaction of ocean swell upon the wind Part II. Waves in Sand and Snow Formed and Propelled by Wind and Current: 8. Waves in sand formed and propelled by wind 9. Waves in drifting snow 10. Sub-aqueous sand waves Part III. Tidal Bores and Other Progressive Waves in Rivers: 11. On the discharge of a progressive from a standing wave in the Rapids of Niagara 12. Roll waves in shallow water flowing in a flat-bottomed channel 13. On tidal bores which assume the form of a group of short waves Additional notes Harold Jeffreys Index.
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