Alain Ducasse, the charismatic, innovative and demanding master chef, invites us to enter the prestigious world of French haute gastronomie. Brilliantly guided by the distinguished author, Jean-François Revel of the Académie Française, we follow this champion of the highest standards in food and its preparation as he creates new recipes, continues his constant search for the finest ingredients, and discovers new techniques and new domains in which to practice his art. Hervé Amiard's photographs illustrate all four sections of the book, providing the backdrop to this fascinating…mehr
Alain Ducasse, the charismatic, innovative and demanding master chef, invites us to enter the prestigious world of French haute gastronomie. Brilliantly guided by the distinguished author, Jean-François Revel of the Académie Française, we follow this champion of the highest standards in food and its preparation as he creates new recipes, continues his constant search for the finest ingredients, and discovers new techniques and new domains in which to practice his art. Hervé Amiard's photographs illustrate all four sections of the book, providing the backdrop to this fascinating journey.L'Atelier, where we witness the creative process and catch the spontaneous gestures and glances of the master chef and his pupils as they exercise their skills. Here too, we meet Alain Ducasse's five star pupils: Franck Cerutti, Jean-Louis Nomicos, Jean-François Piège, Sylvain Portay and Alessandro Stratta.Products and Producers, in which Bénédict Beaugé visits Alain Ducasse's suppliers and hears from the master chef why olives, asparagus, wheat, white Alba truffles, sea bass, turbot, lamb and Menton lemons are his favorite ingredients.Vegetables, where we learn why these products play such a crucial role in Alain Ducasse's culinary vision.Recipes, where the master and his students create delicious, stylish dishes from the eight chosen ingredients.Ceaselessly striving to achieve perfection, Alain Ducasse offers the reader a magnificent lesson in gastronomy. For the first time, Alain Ducasse gives gourmets the opportunity to put themselves in the place of his brilliant pupils. A privilege to be enjoyed to the fullest!Alain Ducasse Famous from Paris to New York, from Turin to Tokyo, the renowned master chef is at the helm of two of France's most prestigious restaurants: the Louis XV-Alain Ducasse in Monaco and the Restaurant Alain Ducasse in Paris. Both these temples of French gastronomy have achieved the exceptional honor of receiving three stars from the Michelin Guide. This accomplished gastronome has developed two contrasting and complementary culinary styles: relaxed, spontaneous Mediterranean cookery and the rigorously classic cuisine of the French capital.
ALAIN DUCASSE Famous from Paris to New York, from Turin to Tokyo, the renowned master chef is at the helm of two of France's most prestigious restaurants : the Louis XV-Alain Ducasse in Monaco and the Restaurant Alain Ducasse in Paris. Both these temples of French gastronomy have achieved the exceptional honor of receiving three stars from the Michelin Guide. This accomplished gastronome has developed two contrasting and complementary culinary styles : relaxed, spontaneous Mediterranean cookery and rigorously classic cuisine of the French capital. He has already published La Riviera d'Alain Ducasse (Albin Michel) and Mediterranées, cuisine de l'essentiel, published by Hachette. JEAN-FRANÇOIS REVEL A graduate of the prestigious École normale supérieure, professor of philosophy, writer and journalist, Jean-François Revel has written numerous philosophical and political works. Formerly literary advisor to several publishing houses and editor of L'Express, he is now a columnist for Le Point and a contributor to RTL. A member of the Club des Cent, the celebrated gastronomic society, he contributed to Les Français à table, published by Hachette in 1997. Revel was awarded the Prix Châteaubriand for his lifetime's work and admitted to the Académie Française. HERVÉ AMIARD Specializing in the art of living and gastronomy, Hervé Amiard's publications include Portrait de chefs (Éditions Contrejour), Les Dimanches de Joël Robuchon, Les Dimanches de Bernard Loiseau (Éditions du Chêne) and L'art de vivre de Joël Robuchon, published in Japan. He also mounted the first food photography exhibition in 1991 for the American Society of Professional Photographers in Paris. His black-and-white photo-reportages were displayed at the eighth Visa pour l'image exhibition in Perpignan. He was awarded the James Beard Foundation prize for Best Photography for Joël Robuchon's Cooking through the Seasons.
Inhaltsangabe
THE ATELIER.
PRODUCTS AND PRODUCERS.
VEGETABLES.
RECIPES.
OLIVES AND OLIVE OIL.
Mediterranean Vegetable Pithiviers with Black Taggiasca Olives and Tomato Syrup (A. Ducasse).
San Remo-style Salt Cod and Mesclun with Fried Baby Squid and Crostini (F. Cerutti).
Potato Millefeuille with Black Olives, Spider Crab Meat and Coral Vinaigrette (J-L. Nomicos).
Olive-stuffed Squab with Olive and Cep Sauce (J-F. Piége).
Zucchini Ravioli with Olives, Marinated Tomatoes, Olive Oil and Green Onions (S. Portay).
Calf's Cheeks with Olives and Swiss Chard (A. Stratta).
ASPARAGUS.
Roast Asparagus Sprinkled with Parmesan Cheese, with Savory Beef and Olive Jus and Bone Marrow (A. Ducasse).
Early Purple Asparagus, Spring Leeks and Late-season Black Truffles (F. Cerutti).
Cooked and Raw Green Asparagus Tips with Warm Oysters and Winkles (J-L. Nomicos).
Charcoal-grilled Villelaure Asparagus, Egg Polignac and Truffle Essence (J-F. Piége).
Roast Asparagus Parmesan, with Steamed Morels au naturel and Poached Egg (S. Portay).
Glazed Asparagus and Veal Sweetbreads Fricassée with Sherry Vinegar (A. Stratta).
WHEAT.
Semi-dried Pasta with Cream Sauce, Truffles, and Ragout of Cockscombs and Chicken Kidney (A. Ducasse).
Spelt Soup with Ewe's Milk Curd Cheese and Mature Pecorino (F. Cerutti).
Golden Galette with Cooked and Raw Black Truffles and Celery Root with Périgueux Sauce (J-L. Nomicos).
Upside-down Wild Strawberry Tart (J-F. Piége).
Champagne-grape Marmalade Tartlets with Crisp Puffed Wheat Cookies and Wheat Nougatine (S. Portay).
Mascarpone Ravioli with Spinach, Chanterelles and Parmesan Cheese (A. Stratta).
THE WHITE ALBA TRUFFLE.
Bresse Chicken Cooked in a Pig's Bladder, with Albufera Sauce and Stewed Vegetables (A. Ducasse).
Mona Lisa Potato Gnocchi with Alba Truffles (F. Cerutti).
Caramelized Spit-roasted Winter Vegetables, Arugula and Grated White Truffle (J-L. Nomicos).
Veal Sweetbreads, Swiss Chard au gratin and Grated Tuber magnatum pico (J-F. Piége).
Poached Egg Topped with Grated White Truffle, with Ragout of Calf's foot and Veal Sweetbreads, Baby Onions and Horns of Plenty (S. Portay).
Scallops with Celery Root and White Truffles (A. Stratta).
SEA BASS.
Sea Bass Steaks with Leeks, Potatoes and Truffles (A. Ducasse).
Fried Mediterranean Bass, Prickly Artichokes and Anchovy Toast (F. Cerutti).
Sea Bass Steaks, Shrimps and Ratte Potatoes with Caviar (J-L. Nomicos).
Sea Bass with Spider Crab Jus and Seafood Garnish (J-F. Piége).
Sea Bass and Bacon Tournedos Meuniére, with Green Lentils and Crispy Bacon Garnish (S. Portay).
Sea Bass with Mediterranean Vegetable Salsa and Bouillabaisse Sauce (A. Stratta).
TURBOT.
Breton Turbot with Shellfish (A. Ducasse).
Spit-roasted Turbot Steaks with Lemon Salsa and Swiss Chard (F Cerutti).
Fillets of Turbot Studded with Lemon Confit, Clams, Artichokes and Samphire au naturel (J-L. Nomicos).
Breton Turbot with Champagne Sabayon Glaze, Asparagus and Crawfish (J-F. Piége).
Turbot Steaks, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Onion and Basil Baked in an Earthenware Dish (S. Portay).
Turbot with Braised Celery, Black Truffles and Potato Purée (A. Stratta).
LAMB.
Spit-Roasted Suckling Lamb, Seasonal Vegetables and Dried Fruit Condiment (A. Ducasse).
Roast Lamb with Parmesan Fennel, Green Onions and Baby Fava Beans Sautéed with Savory (F. Cerutti).
Rack of Lamb with Spiced Souris and Sweetbreads (J-L. Nomicos).
Roast Pyrenean Suckling Lamb with Lamb's Liver Ragout and Red Pepper (J-F. Piége).
Roast Fillet of Lamb with Glazed Lamb Ribs, Potatoes Roasted with Bacon, Tomato Confit and Green Onions (S. Portay).
Rack of Lamb in a Herb Crust, Pepper Ragout and Socca Niçoise (A. Stratta).
LEMONS AND CITRUS FRUITS.
Candied Menton Lemons, Filled with Fresh Basil Sorbet, and Glazed Grapefruit Tartlets (A. Ducasse).
Menton Lemon Tartlets (F. Cerutti).
Scallops with Citrus Fruits and Salsify (J-L. Nomicos).
Duck with a Citrus Glaze and Giblet Melba (J-F. Piége).
Mediterranean Vegetable Pithiviers with Black Taggiasca Olives and Tomato Syrup (A. Ducasse).
San Remo-style Salt Cod and Mesclun with Fried Baby Squid and Crostini (F. Cerutti).
Potato Millefeuille with Black Olives, Spider Crab Meat and Coral Vinaigrette (J-L. Nomicos).
Olive-stuffed Squab with Olive and Cep Sauce (J-F. Piége).
Zucchini Ravioli with Olives, Marinated Tomatoes, Olive Oil and Green Onions (S. Portay).
Calf's Cheeks with Olives and Swiss Chard (A. Stratta).
ASPARAGUS.
Roast Asparagus Sprinkled with Parmesan Cheese, with Savory Beef and Olive Jus and Bone Marrow (A. Ducasse).
Early Purple Asparagus, Spring Leeks and Late-season Black Truffles (F. Cerutti).
Cooked and Raw Green Asparagus Tips with Warm Oysters and Winkles (J-L. Nomicos).
Charcoal-grilled Villelaure Asparagus, Egg Polignac and Truffle Essence (J-F. Piége).
Roast Asparagus Parmesan, with Steamed Morels au naturel and Poached Egg (S. Portay).
Glazed Asparagus and Veal Sweetbreads Fricassée with Sherry Vinegar (A. Stratta).
WHEAT.
Semi-dried Pasta with Cream Sauce, Truffles, and Ragout of Cockscombs and Chicken Kidney (A. Ducasse).
Spelt Soup with Ewe's Milk Curd Cheese and Mature Pecorino (F. Cerutti).
Golden Galette with Cooked and Raw Black Truffles and Celery Root with Périgueux Sauce (J-L. Nomicos).
Upside-down Wild Strawberry Tart (J-F. Piége).
Champagne-grape Marmalade Tartlets with Crisp Puffed Wheat Cookies and Wheat Nougatine (S. Portay).
Mascarpone Ravioli with Spinach, Chanterelles and Parmesan Cheese (A. Stratta).
THE WHITE ALBA TRUFFLE.
Bresse Chicken Cooked in a Pig's Bladder, with Albufera Sauce and Stewed Vegetables (A. Ducasse).
Mona Lisa Potato Gnocchi with Alba Truffles (F. Cerutti).
Caramelized Spit-roasted Winter Vegetables, Arugula and Grated White Truffle (J-L. Nomicos).
Veal Sweetbreads, Swiss Chard au gratin and Grated Tuber magnatum pico (J-F. Piége).
Poached Egg Topped with Grated White Truffle, with Ragout of Calf's foot and Veal Sweetbreads, Baby Onions and Horns of Plenty (S. Portay).
Scallops with Celery Root and White Truffles (A. Stratta).
SEA BASS.
Sea Bass Steaks with Leeks, Potatoes and Truffles (A. Ducasse).
Fried Mediterranean Bass, Prickly Artichokes and Anchovy Toast (F. Cerutti).
Sea Bass Steaks, Shrimps and Ratte Potatoes with Caviar (J-L. Nomicos).
Sea Bass with Spider Crab Jus and Seafood Garnish (J-F. Piége).
Sea Bass and Bacon Tournedos Meuniére, with Green Lentils and Crispy Bacon Garnish (S. Portay).
Sea Bass with Mediterranean Vegetable Salsa and Bouillabaisse Sauce (A. Stratta).
TURBOT.
Breton Turbot with Shellfish (A. Ducasse).
Spit-roasted Turbot Steaks with Lemon Salsa and Swiss Chard (F Cerutti).
Fillets of Turbot Studded with Lemon Confit, Clams, Artichokes and Samphire au naturel (J-L. Nomicos).
Breton Turbot with Champagne Sabayon Glaze, Asparagus and Crawfish (J-F. Piége).
Turbot Steaks, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Onion and Basil Baked in an Earthenware Dish (S. Portay).
Turbot with Braised Celery, Black Truffles and Potato Purée (A. Stratta).
LAMB.
Spit-Roasted Suckling Lamb, Seasonal Vegetables and Dried Fruit Condiment (A. Ducasse).
Roast Lamb with Parmesan Fennel, Green Onions and Baby Fava Beans Sautéed with Savory (F. Cerutti).
Rack of Lamb with Spiced Souris and Sweetbreads (J-L. Nomicos).
Roast Pyrenean Suckling Lamb with Lamb's Liver Ragout and Red Pepper (J-F. Piége).
Roast Fillet of Lamb with Glazed Lamb Ribs, Potatoes Roasted with Bacon, Tomato Confit and Green Onions (S. Portay).
Rack of Lamb in a Herb Crust, Pepper Ragout and Socca Niçoise (A. Stratta).
LEMONS AND CITRUS FRUITS.
Candied Menton Lemons, Filled with Fresh Basil Sorbet, and Glazed Grapefruit Tartlets (A. Ducasse).
Menton Lemon Tartlets (F. Cerutti).
Scallops with Citrus Fruits and Salsify (J-L. Nomicos).
Duck with a Citrus Glaze and Giblet Melba (J-F. Piége).
Floating Citrus Islands (S. Portay).
Salad of Marinated Abalone (A. Stratta).
Rezensionen
. . . Mr. Ducasse says that all the ingredients at his New York restaurant are American, but the experience of eating there combined with an inspection of his very French cookbook "L'Atelier of Alain Ducasse" (text by Jean-Francois Revel, recipes by himself and chefs he has taught, Wiley, 247 pages, $60) helps to explain why people immersed in the food life of New York have found it hard to accept this French transplant at this own supremely high self-estimate. In Paris, he stands out, as a remarkable practitioner of a great tradition making his talented way into the French future. In New York, with its stunningly diverse, eclectic, cosmopolitan food scene, Mr. Ducasse can look a bit narrow and provincial. . .
by Raymond Sokolov
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