Paul Jobling (Parsons New School, Paris, France), Philippa Nesbitt (Canada Ryerson University), Angelene Wong (Parsons New School, Paris, France)

Fashion, Identity, Image

• Gebundenes Buch

Produktbeschreibung

How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.

Produktdetails

• Verlag: Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
• Seitenzahl: 176
• Erscheinungstermin: 5. Mai 2022
• Englisch
• Abmessung: 163mm x 240mm x 14mm
• Gewicht: 448g
• ISBN-13: 9781350183216
• ISBN-10: 1350183210
• Artikelnr.: 62480545

Autorenporträt

Paul Jobling is the author of Fashion Spreads (Berg, 1999), Man Appeal (Berg, 2005) and Advertising Menswear (Bloomsbury, 2014). He was Visiting Professor between 2018 and 2020 for the MA Fashion Studies at The New School, Parsons Paris, France. Philippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine. Angelene Wong graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a doctoral student at School of Art, Design and Media at Nanyang Technological University, Singapore, and a dance artist. Her doctoral thesis focusses on body politics at the intersection of fashion media, dance, and digitalisation.

Inhaltsangabe

List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. Authoring Fashion,
Intersecting Sex and Gender Introduction Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should
All Be Feminists' T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and
authorship Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen's 'The
Widows of Culloden' as poetic text Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen's
abject woman Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother Notes 2. Written
on the body: Fashion, clothing and age Introduction 'Active ageing',
youthfulness and fashion 'Fashion For All Ages' and the new old model army
Race and reversing convention Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the
realities of time and place Notes 3. (Un)Gendering the runway Introduction
Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion The advent
of transgendered models The abject trans-model Between abjection and
acceptance 'Come into the (trans)garden': The heterotopia of fashion The
authentic self Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the
fashion industry Tokenism versus activism Conclusion: Between tokenism and
authenticity Notes 4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities
Introduction Andrea Giacobbe and 'Simplex Concordia' Alessandro Michele and
the Gucci Cyborg Compromising race and diversity A 'genuine cyborg
manifesto'? Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities Notes Epilogue