Pacific Passages
Broschiertes Buch

Pacific Passages

An Anthology of Surf Writings

Herausgeber: Moser, Patrick
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A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long boards into the ocean, modern wave riders continued the practice and surfing as we know it was born. ""Pacific Passages"" brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of perspectives on the history and culture of a sport that has recently been transformed into a global industry. Included are Hawaiian legends and chants, journals of the first Western explorers to the South Pacific, and travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London. Tom Wolfe, ...