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Prague, Beirut, Des Moines, the ugliest village in Essex. What is home for an Arab in Israel? For an ex-patriot returning for the Iowa Country Fair? For a man surrounded by chickens? Plus: Nicholas Shakespeare, in the Andes of Peru. T. Coraghessan Boyle, witnessing miracles in Ireland. Ian Hamilton, in pursuit of J. D. Salinger. Charles Nicholl, watching blood sports in Martinique.